🔗 Share this article Each Cook Must Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants. When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London. An Unexpected Recognition The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised. “I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list. A Charm of Simplicity The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner. The Namesake Dish: Tantuni However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency. It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside. It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together. Other Than the Basic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste. Surpassing the Giants Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations. Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount. The Philosophy of Heart It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner. “I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Journey of Dedication Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort. “My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says. An Accomplishment for the Culture The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.